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Type:1950’s Margot De Taxco 5112 Geometric Bracelet and Choker
Style:1950’s Margot De Taxco 5112 Geometric Bracelet and Choker
1950’s Margot De Taxco 5112 Geometric Bracelet and Choker:1950’s Margot De Taxco 5112 Geometric Bracelet and Choker
A wonderful geometric bracelet and necklace by Margot van Voorheis Carr, better
known as Margot de Taxco. This is an original edition, not a later copy, and
both pieces bear the design number 5112, making it one of her earliest designs
(Morrill and Berk, in Mexican Silver , state that Margot’s design numbers began
with 5100 and continued through 5790). The full stamp on both pieces reads
“Margot de Taxco, Hecho en Mexico 925, 5112” and an Eagle 16 mark. I find no
damage on either piece, and I have not polished them – just washed them in a
mild detergent. The bracelet is 6.75″ long (inside circumference) and 1″ wide,
and weighs 54.8grams. The necklace is 15″ long, 1/2″ wide, and weighs 56.8
grams. The latches on both pieces close tightly, and the bracelet has an
appropriate safety chain. 111.6 grams total.
Margot Van Voorhies was born in 1896 in San Francisco, California. By the time
she left her native country for good, she had survived the death of her father
in 1903, the San Francisco Earthquake in 1906, the loss of her mother at the
hands of a er in 1931 and the end of her first marriage in 1936.
Fortunately, a Mexican vacation changed the life of Margot Van Voorhies in ways
she could never have imagined. In 1937, forty-one-year-old divorcée Margot Van
Voorhies left San Francisco on a trip to Mexico City. Fate threw her into the
path of Don Antonio Castillo, who took her to Taxco, a Mexican hotbed for the
design, crafting, and production of silver objects, in particular jewelry and
housewares.
Soon, Castillo would become Margot’s second husband. At the time, Castillo was
working for William Spratling, a pioneer in Mexican silversmithing. He brought
Margot into the business as a designer, helping her to transform her paper
creations into three-dimensional forms in silver. In 1939, the pair, along with
other members of Castillo’s family, opened shop as Los Castillo Taller [Taller
is Spanish for “Workshop”], with Margot as the top designer.
After ten years, the marriage between Castillo and Van Voorhies dissolved, as
did their professional association. Margot went on to open her own shop in 1948,
taking the name Margot de Taxco, by which she is best known today. Seven years
later, enamel was added to many of her pieces, and this is where Margot found
her legacy.
At the peak of her career, Margot, who designed each piece herself, had two
dozen silversmiths and a dozen enamellists in her employ to execute her vision.
The men performed the duties as silversmiths; the women did the enamel work,
using tiny brushes to bring the watercolor drawings to life. To ensure the
accurate rendering of her jewelry designs, she compiled a book of instructions
and drawings, detailing the construction and finishing of each. Margot attracted
talented craftsmen who later went on to cement their own reputations, such as
Sigi Pineda, Miguel Melendez, and Melecio Rodriguez.
Many contemporary Hollywood celebrities were clients of Margot, including John
Wayne and Lana Turner, who visited her shop every year.
Tragedy struck in the form of a fire in 1960. Forced to move her studio, she
never again regained her prior success, and the business folded in 1974. Margot
granted several of the silversmiths in her employ permission to use her molds to
create pieces on their own, in return for debt forgiveness. As a result, many of
Margot’s pieces were re-created by silversmiths such as Jaimie Quiroz and
Geronimo Fuentes, bearing their hallmark rather than hers.
Margot passed away in 1985. But her talent as a designer and her influence as an
artist have continued to gain recognition since the time of her death.
Margot’s shop produced some repousse silver (a technique where a raised or
relief design is hammered in from the reverse side of the piece). But she is
best known for her champlevé enamel work. Champlevé is created by carving,
etching, striking, or casting troughs or cells into the surface of a piece and
filling it with vitreous enamel. In Margot’s jewelry, the designs were
die-struck, a process that was detailed and critical to the final product.
Margot produced many suites that included necklaces, brooches, bracelets, and
earrings, as well as convertible jewelry. Margot de Taxco jewelry is recognized
for its elegance, femininity, and variety.
There were many areas of influence that can be found in Margot’s work. Her fish
and wave motifs celebrated her love of Japanese art. The ornate swirls and
floral motifs were reminiscent of the Art Nouveau style. Mischievous
pre-Columbian figures were a recurring theme. Art Deco style ballerinas struck
graceful poses. Margot was also taken with Egyptian motifs and Mexican crafts.
Margot de Taxco pieces are distinguished by the stamp that includes her name,
Eagle 16 (or Eagle 1, for her earlier works), along with a production number.
Issued by the government, the eagle stamp was a way to identify th
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